Sweet and sour fish | Auckland Food | Wineries and Restaurants in Auckland

Dishes that balance sweet and sour flavours appear in many cuisines. Italy has caponata, which enlivens braised eggplant with wine vinegar and sugar.

Some Indian and Asian dishes gain sweetness and a dash of bitterness from tamarind, while rock sugar and limes get the nod in Vietnam and Thailand.

The "sweet and sour" idea has been embraced by lovers of Chinese cuisine, but many examples are thrown out of balance by the over-enthusiastic use of pineapple.

This week's recipe returns to the original concept, with subtle sweet and sour flavours in a light sauce. The fish remains the star.

500g skinned, boned fish fillets, cut into 3cm pieces
half tsp salt
2 Tbsps rice wine, preferably Shao Hsing
1 egg, lightly beaten
4 Tbsps plain flour
half tsp baking soda
2 Tbsps rice vinegar (clear)
peanut oil, for frying
1cm piece ginger, peeled, chopped
2 spring onions, mostly white part, chopped
half red capsicum, de-seeded, finely chopped
1 clove garlic part-crushed, chopped
half cup chicken stock
2 Tbsps thin (light) soy sauce
1 Tbsps sugar
2 tsps cornflour
coriander leaves, for garnish

Wrap fish pieces in paper towels and pat gently dry. Place in a bowl, add salt and half the rice wine and toss. Leave to marinate 30 minutes. Mix egg, flour and baking soda with half a teaspoon of the rice vinegar and a little cold water to form a thin batter. Toss fish pieces through to coat.

Heat peanut oil in a deep-fryer, large pot or wok and deep-fry the fish, a few pieces at a time for 2-3 minutes, until golden-brown. Transfer to paper towels with a slotted spoon or Chinese wire sieve. Keep warm. Add two teaspoons of oil to either the cleaned wok or a frypan and add the ginger, spring onion, capsicum and garlic. Stir-fry to soften without browning, then add stock, soy sauce, reserved rice wine, sugar and remaining rice vinegar. Stir to mix, then fold the reserved fish through the sauce and reheat.

Mix cornflour with enough cold water to make a paste and drizzle into sauce, stirring until it thickens slightly.

Spoon fish and sauce over boiled rice in warm bowls, scatter coriander leaves on top and serve.

Serves 4

Wine match

Gewurztraminer made with a dash of sweetness is the perfect foil for this dish because this distinctive variety has rich fruit enlivened by a tweak of bitterness on the finish, echoing the flavours in the bowl. Greystone Waipara Gewurztraminer 2009 has a deliciously inviting bouquet that combines impressions of ginger and roses and an oily, sweet-fruited flavour. It sells in the mid to high-$20s.